Such familiarity here--people look so European and the beautiful 19th C buildings with ironwork and shutters evoke France or Spain. But off the main streets it´s faded grandeur. We toured El Zanjon in San Telmos today, a 19th C home that an individual bought in 1985 to renovate for a restaurant--and in the process found two layers of homes beneath it as well as tunnels to divert streams, the oldest part going back 500 years when the Spanish first came. San Telmo was the first suburb of BA (pronounce Bu-ay-nos Ah-ee-raze!), and when yellow fever broke out the rich fled to Recoleta. San Telmos has cobbled streets, site of the Plaza de Mayo where the widows gather each week and other demonstrations take place. The oldest colonial building in the city, the Cabildo, sits on the plaza, with a wonderful little museum. Tha´s where the vote for independence from Spanish rule took place.At the other end of the plaza is the Pink House, where President Cristina Kirchner has her offices.
We wandered throughout the old district, savoring the Avenida Defensa with all its antique stores, and when our feet gave out took a cab (they´re so cheap!) to MALBA, a terrific modern museum devoted to Latin American art.
The tango event was fun, at a place recommended in the Wash Post--every kind of tango you can imagine for all ages, sizes and economic classes. It was on stage, following a nice dinner--we did not have to try it ourselves!!
Tonight we´re heading out to a beef restaurant recommended by two friends. Supposed to have the best in BA. Then tomorrow, off to Bariloche!
No comments:
Post a Comment