Day 15--Mendoza Bodegas

We chose three vineyards to visit today and hired a car and English-speaking driver to take us around. Nothing is close--each place is 10-15 mins by car from the next. The other catch is that reservations are necessary for the tastings. Our first choice, Catena, the bodega behind the growth of the Argentine wine industry, is not available. The three we visit are all bodegas whose wines are available in D.C.--Luigi Bosca, Nieto Senetiner and Achaval Ferrer.

They're all small Bodegas and gave great tours. Luigi Bosca did not charge, but the other two asked $10-15 each. There are gates and guards and no getting in unless you're expected! Most of their small production is from the malbec grape, which Argentines, Brazilians and Latin Americans like, but Americans and Europeans don't as much. So it's their blends that they export, which nevertheless can be 85% malbec. Achuval Ferrer's 2009 wines are getting raves from Robert Parker--the Altamira won an amazing 99 points. We declined buying it, at a bargain price of $1000/case. Unfortunately, they weren't offering it at the tasting either.

Choosing places to eat is tricky here, as most places look seedy with locked gates or swanky with guards. We just haven't been here long enough to figure it out. Our driver takes us to a lunch place, Casa de Caban, home of a former governor that serves traditional cold plates. Our table (in a private room) was covered with tons of tapas--goat cheeses, sausages, and a myriad of vegetables and fruits roasted or marinated in olive oil, vinegar or wine. If that weren't enough, we were then served a small bowl of spaghetti followed by a meat stew. We could hardly stand after that meal.

On our way this morning, looking for a bank, we found the town center of our area, Chacras de Coria. It is very cute, about a mile from our posada, and we ended up there for dinner at a small Italian place, Piacere. (Somehow we found the power to eat again!). We have learned that our area is where all the well-to-do people who work in Mendoza live--that this is the best place to stay because the city of Mendoza is too noisy and busy. Alas, we won't get to see Mendoza, as we are leaving in the morning for BA.

Money note: managing it is crazy. First of all, it goes quickly! One can often pay in dollars, getting change in pesos, but the more official the recipient ( say, our glacier
tours), the worse the rate. The scuttlebutt from other travelers is that you get the best rate at ATMs, which ends up covering the fee ATMs charge. We have brought lots of dollars and have only been to the bank once--usually there is a huge line!