Day 10--Upsala Glacier/El Calafate

We were on the road before the sun came up for what was to be a fabulous 12-hour day outdoors to see one of Argentina's most active glaciers--booked through Estancia Cristina. We took a bus 40 mins into the vacant brown plains of Patagonia, past 100s of grazing sheep, cattle and horses, to a dock on Lake Argentino--it's Argentina's biggest lake which is fed by 7 major glaciers and is a lovely milky turquoise color as a result. We are in the national park now. After 2 1/2 hours by boat in a ride thrilling its beauty--snow-covered mountains on either side, condors overhead--we come into major icebergs calved from Upsala Glacier, all around us. We get as close to the glacier as safety warrants--the wind kicks up and the icebergs get denser. The glacier is actually three flowing into one. It advances 30 feet a day! But because the lake arm is so deep here(2400 feet), the glacier calves a lot and so actually retreats on an annual basis.

We turn around and beach some 20 mins away--the boats they use just slide up on the sand. From there it is a 2 1/2 hour trek to the glacier's land vantage point--an absolutely glorious hike under sunny blue skies across a rocky Patagonian peninsula surrounded by snowy peaks, ponds, flora, with Lake Argentino in the kdistance. reaching the overlook, we are still only 500 feet above sea level, so no oxygen problems! We picnicked with an absolutely stunning view of the glacier, with a panorama of mountains around us. Then we hiked two hours back to the boat, seeing several wild horses and an eagle on the way. Another 20 mins on the boat, and we landed at the site of the former Estancia Cristina, a working sheep ranch for 100 years whose only access to markets was by boat. Now part of the park, it's a place for tourists to stay overnight and ride horses into the mountains.

We return home by boat and bus, barely able to stay awake over a steak and wine dinner. This was the best day yet! The weather continues to be spectacular, and we have a day of horseback riding planned for tomorrow before flying in the evening to Ushuaia!